Do You Plant Potatoes Eyes Up Or Down? 82 Surprising Facts

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There is a connection between the pieces of information pertaining to How To Plant Potatoes From Eyes, Potato Growing Guide, and How to plant potatoes and when to do it. Regarding the other items that need to be searched, one of those things is concerning Potato Eyes & Sprouts (7 Common Questions Answered), which will also have something to do with What Happens If You Plant Potatoes Upside Down.

82 Unexpected Facts About Do You Plant Potatoes Eyes Up Or Down | Planting Potatoes In Bags

• Cut seed potatoes into pieces that are about the size of a golf ball. Each piece should contain at least 2 eyes. You can force a seed potato to sprout prior to cutting it up by putting it in a well-lit place at room temperature for a few days (just not in direct sunlight). Or you can cut the seed potato first, and then let the sprouts develop under the ground. This is my preferred method as it is much easier to plant an unsprouted seed potato than one that’s developed fragile new sprouts that are easy to break off during the planting process. - Source: Internet
• With the exception of plant breeders, we propagate potatoes vegetatively or asexually; potatoes of the same variety are genetically identical to their parents. So, the ‘seed’ that you’ll find to grow potatoes looks like, well, a potato. However, there are some significant differences that separate seed potatoes from the ones you find in the grocery store. - Source: Internet
• Once you decide what potatoes to grow, you are ready to start chitting. Chitting is when you pre-sprout your spuds to get a head start on the growing process. If you’re growing potato plants from eyes, you’re already practicing chitting. - Source: Internet
• Regardless of whether you plant in rows or holes, when growing seed potatoes in the ground you’re going to want to hill your potato plants two or three times through the growing season with several inches of soil. The deeper potato plants are grown, the more area there is for tuber production. But, planting the seed potatoes too deeply from the start can cause them to rot before they sprout. At the very least, it makes harvesting very difficult at the end of the growing season because the potatoes are buried so deeply. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes are prone to many diseases (bacterial, viral, and fungal), including potato scab and potato blight, that can easily be introduced to the garden when planting your own saved tubers. White potatoes, red potatoes, or those with yellow flesh or red skin are no different than spuds with any number of different colored skins or interiors. Purchasing and planting certified seed potatoes is the only way to ensure a “clean” crop. Certified seed potatoes are guaranteed to be free of disease, and they have not been treated with the anti-sprouting chemicals often used on grocery store potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Hilled in-ground potatoes produce bigger yields. Plus, the developing tubers are kept in the dark, which keeps them from turning into green potatoes (and potentially making you sick with the solanine they contain. More on how and why that happens here.). - Source: Internet
• If you want to know how to plant seed potatoes in the ground, the first step is to pay attention to the depth and spacing of your seed potato pieces. When planting seed potatoes in the ground, either dig an individual hole for each cut piece of seed potato or use a garden hoe to dig a trench to plant several of them in a row 10 to 12 inches apart. The hole or trench should be 4 to 5 inches deep. If you plan to plant multiple rows, space the rows 18 to 24 inches apart. - Source: Internet
• Just as you hill potatoes in the garden to ensure there is maximum space for tuber production, you should also perform a similar task when growing seed potatoes in pots. At planting time, only fill the container with soil mix one-third of the way. Nestle your seed potato pieces into the soil and cover them up. As they sprout and grow, gradually add more soil mix to the container every week or two until the pot is filled to within an inch of the upper rim. Then stop adding soil and keep the container well watered as the plants continue to grow. - Source: Internet
• Now that you know how to plant seed potatoes in the ground, in containers, or in straw, it’s easy to see which method is best for your space. Regardless of which technique you choose, a hearty potato harvest is right around the corner. Just be sure to protect your plants from pests like Colorado potato beetles by covering the plants with floating row cover. - Source: Internet
• Using a clean knife, cut the seed potatoes into pieces two to three days before you plan to plant them. Be sure to wait until your last frost date has passed. Whether or not they have sprouted, let the seed potatoes sit at room temperature in a single layer so their cut tissue can callus over. This prevents soil-borne diseases from entering the seed potatoes when they are planted. - Source: Internet
• The potatoes we grow in the Southeast are considered ‘new’ potatoes, regardless of size, because they’re being harvested off plants that are still alive. These ‘new’ potatoes have very fragile skins, are easily damaged and will not cure in the ground due to the heat of summer soils. Lucky for us, we’re just in it for the goods and can still enjoy quality potatoes for food if not for seed. - Source: Internet
• Spacing for potatoes is around 12 inches apart. Potato soil depth is important, too. They must be covered with a minimum of three inches of potting soil to survive. - Source: Internet
• They’ll do fine anywhere that has full sun to part shade, provided deep soil that’s about average quality. You don’t want rich garden soil, and too much compost will actually cause potatoes to rot. I’m not talking about incredibly poor soil or gravel either, but just average dirt works great for potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Most potatoes benefit from hilling. Once the shoots reach about ten inches tall, scoop extra soil around the plants so it forms mounds. These mounds protect the plants and keep the tubers covered until they are ready for harvest. - Source: Internet
• Small crops of potatoes can also be grown in large, deep containers. This is a good way to get an early batch of new potatoes. Fill the bottom 15cm (6in) of the container with potting compost and plant one seed potato just below this. As the new stems start growing, keep adding compost until the container is full. - Source: Internet
• Our raised beds are part of our permaculture plantings, and they’re interspersed with fruit trees, raspberry canes, and all manner of other edibles. It’s never exactly full sun, but potatoes don’t really mind. They do find in full sun or part shade, so don’t worry if you’re growing on a back patio. - Source: Internet
• The way to grow potatoes from scraps starts when you either use old potatoes at home or you purchase some potatoes from garden centers or a grocery store. Observe each potato until you find the one with the most eyes. Now it is time to learn how to get potatoes to sprout eyes. - Source: Internet
• So, what do you need to know about potato eyes and sprouts? Potato eyes will sprout & become a new plant. Potatoes sprout fast (in 2 weeks) at room temperature (70 degrees Fahrenheit or 21 degrees Celsius). Put long sprouts in light to slow their growth. Remember: plant tubers with eyes facing up, and hill the plants as they grow! - Source: Internet
• Add the potatoes to the pan and cook for 20 minutes or until tender. Sprinkle the cheddar cheese and bacon over the potatoes and mix everything until the cheese melts. Pour the potatoes into a large serving dish and sprinkle the fresh green onions over the top. - Source: Internet
• One pound of seed potatoes yields about 8 to 10 seed pieces for planting. That’s enough for a 10 foot long row if the pieces are spaced 12 inches apart. When first figuring out how to plant seed potatoes, I determined that spacing a little closer works too. I space my seed potato pieces about 10 inches apart when planting. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes are not actually seeds at all. Instead, they are simply potato tubers that are used for planting. Most often, they are saved from last year’s harvest and stored over the winter under exacting conditions to keep them firm and disease free. Rather than saving some of your own harvest for replanting the next year, I recommend purchasing new certified disease-free seed potatoes at the start of each growing season. - Source: Internet
• Since potatoes start off completely underground, you might want to use a marker (a stick, plastic label, etc.) to tell you where you planted the potatoes. That way, you won’t step on them and compact the soil after planting. - Source: Internet
• Potato plants grow best when you mound the dirt. This is because potatoes grow underneath the soil. The leaves of the potato plant grow above ground but the roots and potatoes will all develop underground. So the bigger the mound of dirt you create, the more room the potatoes will have to grow. - Source: Internet
• Do not wash your harvested potatoes. You want to keep potatoes dry to avoid rot. To clean off the dirt, use a dry, soft vegetable brush. Store them in a cool dry place. Potatoes can usually be stored for up to 6 weeks or more. - Source: Internet
• 4. Cure your seed potatoes — Now, you need to leave your cut potatoes out to ‘cure’ for 3-5 days. You can lay them out in the sun, or just keep them in a warm space (roughly 70°F). You should notice a thick callous forming over the cuts within a couple of days. - Source: Internet
• Store all potatoes in a cool dark place until you are ready to eat them or sell them. A light-free storage place is critical to keep potatoes from ‘greening’. DO NOT EAT green potatoes; they contain a toxin that is detrimental to the central nervous system. Any green potatoes should be discarded. No green? No problem. - Source: Internet
• There are three main ways you can plant seed potatoes. They can be planted directly into the ground (or in a raised bed); they can be planted in containers; and they can be planted under straw. Rotate crops so your potatoes are not planted in the same spot each season. Regardless of which seed potato-planting method you choose, select a site that receives at least 6 hours of full sun per day and wait until soil temperatures have warmed before planting and soil moisture levels are good. Let me walk you through each of these three methods so you can determine how to plant seed potatoes in your own garden. - Source: Internet
• In the Southeast, soils get too hot in the summer to grow great potatoes. Varieties with DTM beyond 120 days is not advisable. Shoot to have all your taters up by the end of July at the latest for best quality. - Source: Internet
• Plant sprouted potatoes in full sun to part shade, in average garden soil, about 6 to 8” deep and 12 to 16” apart. I don’t bother cutting them, just plant them whole. They can be planted as early as 4 weeks before the last frost in spring, or as late as 8 weeks before the first winter frost. Sprouts should be facing up. - Source: Internet
• 9. Store your potatoes — If you want your potatoes to last, you should first let them cure for a few days on the top of the soil after carefully digging them up. If it rains, move them to shelter. - Source: Internet
• You may also be wondering how to plant seed potatoes in containers. This second method of growing spuds is great for folks with limited space or no in-ground garden. It’s easy to do, and though the yields are often slightly smaller than growing seed potatoes in the ground, it’s the perfect option for anyone who is looking to save labor, too. - Source: Internet
• Indeterminate potatoes tend to be super long season potatoes, usually needing 100 to 135 days to mature. (Some types of russet potatoes are indeterminate.) - Source: Internet
• When thinking about how to plant seed potatoes in containers, you should also consider using fabric grow bags for the job. These lightweight containers drain easily, are inexpensive, and keep plant roots from circling inside the pots. Some brands even have designs with flaps that open on the side of the grow bag to make potato harvesting a snap. - Source: Internet
• Different varieties of potatoes have different Days To Maturity (DTM). It’s best to identify the variety you are growing and its DTM to give you an idea of when your crop will be ready to harvest. Count the days from planting to figure out target harvest dates per potato variety. - Source: Internet
• First, don’t plant the whole potato in the ground. You’ll need to do a little bit of prep to get your sprouted potatoes ready for planting for best results. Don’t worry, it’s easy. You don’t need to be a gardening expert to pull off growing potato plants. Just follow these steps… - Source: Internet
• The main reason to cut potatoes before planting is to get more plants from fewer seed potatoes. Commercial growers cut the potatoes into pieces that each have 2 eyes (sprouts) each, and then plant those. They’ll each develop into a potato plant. - Source: Internet
• Then for the fun part! Harvesting potatoes is like digging for treasure. Grab a garden fork and/or some garden gloves if you want to use your hands and dig in! Sift throw the mounded dirt until you find your potatoes. You’ll likely get a variety of sizes. - Source: Internet
• Separating the tubers from the potatoes is the first step in growing potatoes from eyes. Cut your potato tuber from the whole potato. Find an area in your garden bed that receives full sun and has plenty of drainage. - Source: Internet
• If you’re a novice when it comes to growing potatoes, you’re in luck. Here, we will take you through exactly what you need to do to get your potatoes thriving. We will cover when best to plant them as well as how to cultivate your land beforehand. This guide will answer any questions you might have and will provide useful tips and tricks, which even the most seasoned gardeners should know about. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes can also be grown under black polythene sheets. The tubers are planted through slits in the polythene. The advantages of this method are that there is no need to earth up, and new potatoes form just below the surface, so there’s little or no need to dig. - Source: Internet
• How long does it take potatoes to grow? This really depends on the type of potato you’re growing and the size you want to grow them to. New potatoes need between 60-90 days to grow, whereas full-size potatoes require about 120 days. You can tell they’re ready to harvest because the leaves start to die back and you might also notice a small mound of soil pushed up at the base of the stem. Failing that, you can also feel for the size of the potato in the soil if you’re unsure. - Source: Internet
• Feed your plants and they will feed you. Replenishing nutrients used by your plants ensures they will grow to their full potential. Potatoes are gross feeders, feed every three to four weeks during key growth periods. For potatoes planted in garden beds feed with a specialty fertiliser like Tui Potato Food, which contains high levels of phosphorus and potassium promote healthy tuber production and plant growth. - Source: Internet
• Try to get them all, of course, but any left in the soil will grow new plants in a few weeks, which isn’t exactly a bad thing. If it’s late in the season, they’ll wait until next spring to sprout. I have beds that have been growing potatoes for 3 seasons straight now, all from volunteers. - Source: Internet
• Knowing how to plant potatoes the right way can give you the biggest and best tubers possible. Potatoes are pretty straightforward to grow, much like learning how to grow tomatoes from seeds , but following this guide will make a difference. Your potatoes will be full-sized and flavorsome, ripe for cooking in no time. - Source: Internet
• The best location for planting potatoes is in a full sun bed that has loose, well-draining soil. Ideally, they prefer a slightly acidic medium, with a pH of 5-6.5. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes grow best in cooler climates with at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Potatoes will not typically survive temperatures less than 40˚F. Too warm isn’t good either though. Soil temperatures warmer than 80˚F may fail to produce to potatoes. - Source: Internet
• You can also dig for potatoes with a trowel, pitchfork, or other tool. This will be faster than digging by hand, but there is more risk of damaging some potatoes. Of course, any that get damaged can be washed and eaten immediately. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes have been grown to physical maturity meaning they were cured in the ground before harvest and are able to be stored successfully to produce next year’s crop. You’ll notice that most seed potatoes come from northern latitudes like Colorado, Idaho and Maine. These climates have the kind of weather potatoes need to produce high quality, disease-free seed crops. - Source: Internet
• Once cured, you should store your potatoes somewhere dry, cool, well-ventilated and dark (35-45°F). Don’t wash them until you’re ready to use them, as this will shorten the lifespan. For long-term storage, a root cellar is ideal. - Source: Internet
• For full-sized storage potatoes, allow them to grow all season long until the plants die back. That’s usually 60 to 100 days after planting, depending on the variety. Harvest the potatoes after the plants have been dead for about 2 weeks (they develop their skins for storage after the plants die back). - Source: Internet
• Grow your potatoes from Tui Certified Seed Potatoes – these are certified to ensure they are true to type, and will grow a healthy crop. Select a variety of seed potatoes that suits your tastes/how long you want to wait for your potatoes to be ready. View the list of Tui Seed Potato Varieties here, and click here for a guide to picking your potato variety. - Source: Internet
• 2. Pick out your seed potatoes — Make sure you buy seed potatoes for planting, not potato seeds. Any potatoes you pick up from a grocery store won’t work as they will have been treated with a sprout-retardant. You can find seed potatoes at local farm shops, but they’re widely available online too, such as these seed potatoes from Simply Seed ($12.59, Amazon (opens in new tab)). - Source: Internet
• When I say carefully dig, I don’t mean so that you can re-plant the parent plant. Once dug, it won’t continue to produce. The main reason to be careful is to avoid damaging the potatoes as you harvest them. - Source: Internet
• According to Cornell University, potatoes like acidic soil, with a pH between 4.8 and 5.5. They can survive in soil with a higher pH, but there is more of a chance of scab, which is a disease that affects potatoes. - Source: Internet
• When should you plant potatoes? Potatoes are best planted in early spring or as soon as the soil can be worked. The soil should be between 45º to 55ºF, which means you will need to protect your potatoes with a cover if a late frost hits your yard. You don’t want the soil to be overly wet either as this can rot the potatoes. It’s best to wait 2-3 weeks prior to the last frost date for general guidance. However, potatoes can be planted as late as June, so you’re not tied to these dates. - Source: Internet
• The adults are smaller than a golf ball, and they lay their eggs on the plants. Their larvae overwinter under the soil. Put crop rotation into place so potatoes aren’t planted in the same location every year. - Source: Internet
• Before planting, you’ll need to prepare your seed potatoes. Any that are the size of a golf ball or smaller can be used whole. But if they are larger, you should cut them into smaller sections first. - Source: Internet
• Place small potatoes in a single layer in egg cartons or boxes. Place the seeds in a warm and dark place that remains around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The potatoes break their dormancy during this time and start greening. - Source: Internet
• A potato sprouts from the eyes on the potato. Each sprouted eye can be cut and grown into a plant. If an eye has multiple sprouts, go ahead and leave those grouped together when you make your cuts. - Source: Internet
• Few crops are as rewarding to grow as potatoes. From watching their little eyes open and emerge from the soil after planting to peaking around the base of the plants to see the first tubers forming to finally harvesting a bountiful crop of fresh potatoes…no matter if it’s your first or 50th crop the whole process is magical. Got questions? We’ve got answers…. - Source: Internet
• You can always dig around a bit to see how things are coming along. Generally, new potatoes will be present by day 60; they will be small and fragile. You can take a few if you just can’t wait any longer!! Most varieties will have good-sized tubers that are ready to harvest by 90 days. - Source: Internet
• Know that as soon as you harvest, you’re digging up the plant and it won’t produce any more potatoes. (Yes, you can try to re-plant it, but once dug up, they might “live” technically, but they rarely recover to produce further.) - Source: Internet
• There’s a very important reason we keep potatoes in the dark. If potatoes are exposed to sunlight, they will start to photosynthesize and produce a green pigment under the skin. This ‘greening’ IS TOXIC to anything that eats it!! It’s a great strategy for the potato to avoid being eaten but not so great for us if we plan on harvesting an edible crop. Hilling potatoes ensures that forming tubers are fully covered with soil and are protected from the sun’s rays. With that in mind, if you see any potatoes at the soil line, be sure to cover them promptly to prevent greening. - Source: Internet
• Gently loosen the soil around the entire potato plant in early fall and remove the roots from the soil. The way to know when potatoes are bad is by feel and smell. Spoiled potatoes are wrinkly, slimy, and stink. Make sure to wash the potatoes before cooking with them. - Source: Internet
• Generally, potatoes are planted in the spring, about 4 weeks BEFORE the last frost date in your area. That’s 4 weeks before you’d put out your tender garden crops like tomatoes and peppers. They take a while to sprout up out of the soil, and during that time they’re insulated in the earth. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes prefer soil that has been amended in the Fall with your amendment(s) of choice &/or compost. Some growers will cover crop spring potato beds with Canola/Rape, oats or barley_ something that will hold the soil over the winter but be easy to kill and incorporate before planting their potatoes. Other growers prefer to leave spring potato beds fallow and weed-free for ease of getting into the field as early as possible. Whatever bed preparation method you choose, potatoes DO NOT like to be next to actively decomposing green matter. Leave time between tillage and planting to allow green matter to break down; 2-6 weeks is a good time frame. - Source: Internet
• Instead of initially planting the seed potatoes deeply, gardeners overcome this challenge by mounding excess dirt up around the plants as they grow. This process is known as hilling. Basically, every three to four weeks, use a shovel or hoe to pile nearby soil up against the stems, covering the plants so just a few leaves stick out the top. Don’t worry about burying them too deeply; as long as some of the plant is visible, it will keep growing (plus, it keeps the weeds down). - Source: Internet
• Potatoes need water, but they don’t need to be sitting in a puddle. Depending on the weather and your soil type, we can provide the potato plants with better drainage by periodically pulling up soil around the growing stems. Heavy rains will run off into the aisles and away from the potatoes. - Source: Internet
• The weather, weeds, pest insects and diseases can all impact on the success of your garden. Mounding will help protect your potatoes from the elements. Carefully hoe around sprouts to keep your crop weed free. When watering, water the soil not the foliage to avoid blight. Be vigilant and stop unwanted insects and diseases from ruining your plants. - Source: Internet
• Keep in mind that potatoes grown in the Southeast will likely be harvested before the scorching heat of summer and will not get a chance to cure in the ground. This means skins will be very fragile and the potatoes will not keep as long as those that are allowed to fully mature and cure in the ground. You can expect Southeastern crops to store 1-3 months, depending on variety, potato size and storage conditions. Past 3 months, potatoes may start to dehydrate and deteriorate in quality. - Source: Internet
• Dig a trench in your bed about 4”-6” deep; triangle or standard hoes work well. Lay seed pieces eyes-up in the trench at 8”-12” for standard potato varieties and 12”-16” for fingerling varieties. You may wish to lay drip tape into the trench next to your seed potatoes to conserve water and to ensure that any water you put out gets to your crop and not your weeds. Cover seed (and drip tape, if used) with several inches of soil and tamp lightly….and you’re done! - Source: Internet
• To harvest potatoes, carefully dig around each plant to remove the potatoes from the soil. In most cases, the potatoes will be at or a few inches below the original planting depth. Potatoes tend to spread out laterally, so look about 12 to 16” in all directions from the parent plant. - Source: Internet
• Second, any seed potatoes you buy should be CERTIFIED DISEASE FREE. Potatoes intended to be sold for seed are tested for a panel of diseases before receiving a government-issued ‘disease-free’ certificate. Any seed lots that test positive are not certified and are not sold. Without this assurance, you could unknowingly introduce diseases into your crop and your soil that could persist for many years. So, if you like growing potatoes, don’t risk planting seed from questionable sources because there’s no way of knowing what else you’ll be planting. - Source: Internet
• First, most potatoes in the grocery store have been treated with a sprout-inhibitor that prevents the potatoes’ eyes from developing while in storage and on the shelf. Seed potatoes are NEVER treated with sprout inhibitors. This alone can be the difference between growing potatoes successfully or not. - Source: Internet
• In the southeast, potatoes are grown from March to May-July, depending on varietal days to maturity. Y’all know what else is growing March to July….WEEDS!! Oh, the weeds… You’ll have to manage those any way, you might as well go on and hill those taters in the process. Hilling uproots weeds as you pull the soil up around the potato plants. - Source: Internet
• It doesn’t matter. Generally new plants sprout from the eyes, so it would make sense for the eye to face upwards. However, planting the potato seed cutting with the eye upwards or downwards has not been found to affect production yield. - Source: Internet
• 7. Water and wait — Potatoes need about one to two inches of water a week for general guidance, but don’t overwater them as they first start to grow. Give them plenty of water through the summer, especially when they start to flower. Once the leaves turn yellow and die back, stop watering — this will help preserve the potatoes for harvest. - Source: Internet
• The month you plant potatoes depends on your climate. Find the last expected frost date for your region, and start checking on the soil temperature 4-5 weeks before then. When the soil is workable and warm enough, it’s time. - Source: Internet
• Unlike planting sprouted onions or planting sprouted garlic, the process for planting sprouted potatoes isn’t all that different from growing potatoes in general. We tend to grow potatoes in raised beds, but they also do fine straight in the soil. Many people choose to plant sprouted potatoes in containers, and they do well in large pots and in grow bags. - Source: Internet
• 5. Prep the ground — While your potatoes are curing, you can get to work on the ground. Remove any weeds and, using a hoe or shovel, dig a trench roughly 6-8 inches deep, with the base about 3 inches wide. If you need more than one row, keep about 3 feet between them. Cultivate the soil by mixing in compost or rotted manure at the base of the trench. - Source: Internet
• 8. Harvest your potatoes — This is best done on a dry day. You can harvest new potatoes two weeks after the plant has finished flowering, but bear in mind these won’t cure and will need to be eaten within a few days, so you may only want to dig up one or two plants at a time. Ideally, you should wait for 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back to dig them out. - Source: Internet
• In the southeast, we typically plant our potatoes in March. Consider waking up your potatoes in mid-February by green-sprouting them for several weeks before planting. Place whole seed potatoes one or two layers deep in a box then leave them in a warm_60-85 degrees_ dark place to encourage their eyes to pop. Be careful when handling them to avoid breaking off sprouted eyes. - Source: Internet

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