How To Treat Grubs In Lawn: 80 Fun Facts

This time around, we shall cover How To Treat Grubs In Lawn. Obviously, there is a great deal of information on Scotts Turf Builder on the Internet. The fast rise of social media facilitates our ability to acquire knowledge.

Lawn Grubs & How to Treat Them-related material is also connected to How to Control Lawn Grubs and Lawn Brown Spots. As for further searchable items pertaining to Grass Types, they will likewise have anything to do with Lawn Brown Spots.

80 Fun Facts How To Treat Grubs In Lawn | How to Get Rid of Garden & Lawn Grubs Naturally (Guide)

• Milky spore is an eco-friendly, natural, non-toxic option, which makes it a great place to start. If you choose to use milky spore, simply follow the instructions on the package. You may also want to purchase an inexpensive Milky Spore Lawn & Garden Dispenser to make it even easier to apply this powder to your lawn or garden beds. - Source: Internet
• Two of the most popular kinds of grubs are June bugs and Japanese beetles. Female Japanese beetles lay their eggs deep in the soil (1-2 inches) and spend two-three weeks producing as many eggs as possible. Once the eggs hatch, the grub worms start looking for food to develop and grow. - Source: Internet
• Though most of the insects you find in your garden won’t cause harm to your plants, there are certainly some that do, especially if their population grows out of control. For homeowners who have lawns, the grub worm is one such pest. Also commonly called grubs, lawn grubs, white grubs, or turf grubs, these critters feed on the roots of lawn grass and can cause significant damage if there are a lot of them infesting a lawn. Before learning how to control grub worms, it’s important to know how to properly identify them and determine how many is too many for your lawn to handle. - Source: Internet
• If you decide to treat your garden beds or lawn for grubs, it is best to introduce the treatment to the soil in mid- to late-summer or early fall. During this time, the grubs will be newly hatched and will be near the surface and beginning to feed. During the winter, they burrow deeper into the soil, and during the spring they are in the pupal stage, and then move into the imago stage, which means most treatments will be far less effective. - Source: Internet
• If you are treating during a dry spell remember to water the insecticide into the lawn. If you are lucky enough to have rain coming then use the opportunity to your advantage; apply the treatment while the rain is falling. To ensure the grubs are eradicated, apply the treatment again in two weeks. This is especially important because eggs can take two to five weeks to hatch. A re-application at this point will ensure that any missed eggs or grubs are eliminated. - Source: Internet
• the grass you’ve cut. You don’t want to damage the lawn. Repeat the process. Scout in other places on the lawn, just to be sure. - Source: Internet
• “I always chuckle about [checking the threshold], in that skunks and raccoons haven’t read about this threshold,” says Shetlar. “If there are four to five grubs per square foot, that’s usually enough for them to be digging around.” - Source: Internet
• Too many grubs (more than 8 per 1 sq ft.) in your yard can develop into an issue. In fact, the Minnesota Department of Agriculture closely monitors the movement of Japanese Beetles, especially if they are found outside of the metropolitan area and southeast region of the state—where they are more likely to occur. - Source: Internet
• The presence of grubs can cause a few different types of damage to your lawn. In late spring and fall, you might see randomly shaped patches of dead grass. In early spring the following year, brown patches that don’t go green may indicate previous fall feeding. - Source: Internet
• Throughout August and September, you may notice your lawn turning brown in certain areas. The chances are your lawn is being invaded by thriving grubs living and feeding below the lawn’s surface. While it looks unpleasant, grub worms can be controlled with proper treatments, and your lawn can be restored to its appealing and healthy state. - Source: Internet
• Before you consider making a homemade grub killer using borax, it is important to note that borax contains boron, and too much boron will kill your grass. If you use a borax grub killer repeatedly on your lawn or in flowerbeds or garden beds, the boron will accumulate in the soil and nothing will grow. So, this option should be used sparingly, if at all. - Source: Internet
• Like nematodes, milky spore isn’t a quick fix. It takes a few years to develop enough of the beneficial spores to rid the yard of grubs. But once established, the “disease” effectively wards off grubs. - Source: Internet
• Birds love to dine on grubs, so if you do not mind birds digging around in your flowerbeds or lawn, invite more of them to hang out in your yard. You can attract birds with bird feeders, bird baths and bird houses. To learn more about attracting birds to your yard, read Learn the Secrets of Attracting Birds to Your Backyard. - Source: Internet
• New generations of root feeding lawn grubs appear after female beetles lay their eggs in the soil. The eggs hatch and the lawn grubs feed on plant roots and underground organic matter before pupating and emerging as adult beetles. The eggs can lie in the soil for up to three years before hatching but usually hatch annually. - Source: Internet
• The exact lifecycle of each type of grub worm is subtly different, but for the most part, the adults are active for a just a few weeks in mid to late summer. Females then lay eggs on or just under the soil surface in your lawn. The eggs hatch several days later and the new grubs begin to burrow down into the ground and feed on plant roots. - Source: Internet
• As your turf recovers from the hot summer temperatures, watch out for brown patches, especially after the fall fertilizing. You can lift some of the turf in the affected area, and if it rolls up easily like a carpet, chances are your lawn is invaded by grubs. Grubs feed on roots; therefore, they can weaken your turf and make it susceptible to lawn diseases. - Source: Internet
• Remember, getting rid of grubs manually takes a lot of time. You’ll have to locate each one, pull it out of the ground, and get rid of it. Doing this yourself will take time, but doing so is a key part of keeping your vegetable garden growing well. - Source: Internet
• Due to the rate at which lawn grubs feed (and move across your lawn), the amount of eggs they lay and the sheer numbers involved in an infestation delaying treatment can be disastrous. Your local turf farmer, online lawn care product provider or nursery can supply advice and a fast acting insecticide such as Lawn Solutions Grub Guard, Amgrow Patrol Lawn Pest Control or Battle Insecticide to get the job sorted quickly and easily. Always follow the manufacturer’s handling and safety instructions and use a product that is designed especially for the type of lawn you have. Each different insecticide product type requires a different method of application so it is essential that you read all instructions to receive the outcome you need; no more lawn grubs. Because lawn grubs bury themselves in the soil during the day and come out to feed at night the most effective time to apply the treatment is as late in the day as possible while the adults are active. - Source: Internet
• Since this area of your lawn is already damaged, go ahead and remove some of the patchy grass so that you can dig down into the soil. In the winter, the grubs will be deeper in the ground, but in the spring, late summer or fall, they will be in the top few inches. Dig up about one square foot of turf in a few areas to see how many grubs you have per square foot. - Source: Internet
• A chemical-free way to rid yourself of lawn grubs is to put a wet hessian bag over the affected area of your lawn. The grubs will attach themselves to the hessian overnight and you can then dispose of the grubs first thing in the morning. The more thorough method for you can use a chemical like Grub Killa . With the active ingredient Bifenthrin, this product is toxic to most insects but less toxic to birds and of minimal toxicity to mammals. This makes it safer than many other pest control products. - Source: Internet
• Another way to kill active grubs in your lawn is by applying nematodes. Beneficial nematodes are small worms that move under the turf, deep in the soil. They kill the grubs by releasing pathogens that attack them and kill them quickly. - Source: Internet
• eggs are laid. European chafers do this in late June, Japanese beetles in July and August. One to two weeks later, the eggs hatch and the young grubs begin feeding on grass roots. - Source: Internet
• Second test is to mix together a bucket of soapy water and pour it over the edge of an affected area. Keep any eye on it and after about 10 minutes or so, usually if there are grubs there, they will come to the surface. This is best done at dawn or dusk when they are most likely to be active. - Source: Internet
• For those choosing a more natural grub treatment as to how to get rid of lawn worms, there are several options available. All of which are considered safe and effective. These include milky spore, neem oil, and nematodes — available at most garden centers. - Source: Internet
• Curatives, which are designed to kill immature larvae, should be applied in late summer or early fall when young grubs are actively feeding on grass roots. Look for a product that contains trichlorfon, such as Dylox (view on Amazon). Just note that curatives do not affect grubs that have already developed into pupae. - Source: Internet
• When choosing insecticides for lawn grubs, it’s important to consider the various types. For fall treatment, Dylox is the most effective and fast acting available. However, two products worth consideration for use early in the season, Merit and Mach-2, can be helpful for prevention. These target the pests before they lay their eggs, killing them and any hatchlings before an infestation occurs. Always read and follow instructions carefully when using these types of products. - Source: Internet
• the count. If there are 10 or more grubs per square foot, you have a serious infestation. Replace the grass you’ve cut. You don’t want to damage the lawn. - Source: Internet
• Lawn grubs live in the soil eating grass roots and leaving your yard brown and unattractive. Not only can these pests damage the lawn, but their presence also invites unwelcome wildlife that feed on lawn grubs — digging up patches of grass in search of them. The majority of grub worms come from Japanese beetles, which lay their eggs in midsummer in sunny areas of the lawn. Taking care of this problem is simply a matter of how to detect grub worms and when to apply grub worm treatment. - Source: Internet
• If you choose to use borax, the simplest recipe is to add one tablespoon of borax with warm water in a spray bottle. Then, use the spray bottle to distribute the borax-water solution on areas where you have found grubs. You will need to repeat this treatment until you have eradicated the grub population, so remember the part about boron accumulating in the soil over time before you choose this option. - Source: Internet
• Most healthy lawns can sustain a per-square-foot rate of up to five grubs without issue. Six or more grubs per square foot, however, often create damaged areas and require treatment, especially if they are attracting animal activity. If you calculate a rate of 10 or more, then your lawn likely needs thorough treatment as it will have noticeable damage. - Source: Internet
• Beneficial nematodes acclimate to your lawn best when the soil is moist, so water your lawn both before and after applying the nematodes. Use distilled water to mix the solution and apply the spray in the evening to give the nematodes time to burrow down into the soil before the sun rises. A few weeks after application, look for reddish-brown grubs – a sure sign the nematodes are doing their job! - Source: Internet
• No matter which type (or types) of grub worms reside in your landscape, most of the time they don’t cause any problems. Healthy, organic lawns that contain a mixture of grass species and other plants, such as clover and violets, can handle a fairly large population of grubs before showing signs of damage. Grub worm problems tend to develop in lawns that consist of a single grass species or lawns that are over-fertilized and over-irrigated (more on this in a bit). But, when infestations of 15 or more grub worms per square foot of lawn are present, your lawn may develop brown patches that peel back easily like a carpet. When you lift the grass up, you’ll spy the C-shaped grubs in the upper layer of soil beneath it. - Source: Internet
• One of the first signs indicating you might have grubs in your lawn is birds circling your house. A bird that feeds on grub worms is known as the House Wren. If you don’t want to use pesticides to kill active grubs, you can try to attract more birds in your lawn. You can do this by leaving extra food for birds or building birdhouses around your backyard. Soon, you will start noticing House Wrens flying around with grub worms in their claws. - Source: Internet
• Asiatic garden beetles are light brown as adults and white with a brown head as grubs (similar to other white grubs). There are signs they are overtaking the Japanese beetle in some areas of the eastern U.S. The Asiatic garden beetles are nocturnal and will come to lights at night. - Source: Internet
• It is also unique in that it can be used as a preventative measure, up to 6 months of protection from every application. This means you can get year-round protection from just 2 applications. This is a great solution for people with regular lawn grub invasions. We have a great video explaining exactly how to use Acelepryn GR which is available from our lawn care store: - Source: Internet
• Remember, seeing a few grub worms in your soil is no cause for concern. Unless your lawn develops brown patches that easily peel back or you spy 15 or more grubs per square foot of lawn, just ignore them. They’re a great food source for birds, salamanders, ground beetles, toads, frogs, and other creatures. - Source: Internet
• Keep down the thatch. “I emphasize a lot — especially to lawn care and sport field managers — [to try] to keep the thatch down to a minimum,” Shetlar said. His key to this: fertilizing one’s lawn with nitrogen only once per year, and doing it very strategically “and judiciously, usually in late October, early November.” - Source: Internet
• The grubs in your lawn are usually small, worm-like bugs that live deep in the soil and fuel their growth with roots. In fact, they will eat anything they find within the soil to grow stronger. By eating up the grassroots, grubs start to kill the patches in your green lawn, leaving brown patches in some areas. - Source: Internet
• It’s important to remember that when grubs mature into their beetle form, the damage to your lawn is already done. Therefore, it’s essential to keep your lawn healthy and treat it using organic solutions vs. pesticides, as the latter can have a harmful impact on our environment, plantlife, and wildlife species. - Source: Internet
• If your lawn is otherwise healthy, it should be able to sustain a population of nine or fewer grubs per square foot. If your lawn is not in optimal health, it can only sustain a population of five or fewer grubs per square foot. This means that if you have a population of five or fewer grubs, you do not need to treat it, but if you have population between six and nine per square foot, you will need to consider the overall health of your lawn when determining whether you need to treat it. - Source: Internet
• Black beetle eggs are laid in spring and early summer. After several weeks the eggs hatch and the larvae or grubs emerge that then feed on the grass roots. It is when large numbers of these eggs hatch that it is a serious problem for some lawns. These larvae develop through 3 stages, the fully-grown larvae at the end of the third stage are around 25mm long. You will need to be particularly vigilant as the weather warms up, usually September to March, and after heavy rain. - Source: Internet
• Grubs make their home in your soil and feed on the roots of turf grass. When they mature into adults, they move on to plants and foliage. Generally, if you find less than 8 grubs per 1 square foot in your garden or lawn, there’s no real cause for concern. - Source: Internet
• Milky spore is a disease that can effectively treat lawn grubs and is environmentally safe. Spores are applied to affected lawn areas, infecting lawn grubs as they feed. Once the grubs die and decompose, additional spores are released into the soil, which helps prevent further infestations. - Source: Internet
• Salt and water kill grubs in the lawn without destroying their hiding spots. Salt and whiting kill grubs by dehydrating them. Grubs must be killed with salt to be safely disposed of. - Source: Internet
• Beneficial nematodes are also used as natural grub treatment. These tiny, soil-dwelling worms release bacteria into the soil that infects and kills lawn grubs. Nematodes are available in liquid form or mixed with water and sprayed onto affected areas. - Source: Internet
• If you find your lawn afflicted with the curse of the lawn grubs don’t despair. Treating and eradicating these pests is relatively easy. You will need to be particularly vigilant as the weather warms up, usually September to March, and after heavy rain. Couch and Kikuyu varieties are usually the most prone to attack and Buffalo to a lesser extent. Once you have determined that you are indeed under attack you must defend your lawn without delay. - Source: Internet
• If you’ve had a grub problem in the past, or if you’ve spotted telltale brown patches in your neighbor’s yard, applying a preventive grub-control product will reduce the risk of your lawn becoming infested. Preventive products stop the next generation of grubs, but they have little effect on any young grubs that are currently chomping away in your grass. Look for preventive products that contain either imidacloprid (such as Merit) or halofenozide (such as Mach 2). - Source: Internet
• Milky Spore – This powder-form substance creates a bacteria (i.e., milky disease) in your soil that kills grubs. You might think: why would I put bacteria in my lawn? Don’t worry. Milky spores won’t hurt your yard or surrounding vegetation—as long as you follow directions carefully. - Source: Internet
• “Everybody says grubs eat the grass roots,” says Shetlar, professor emeritus at The Ohio State University, but there’s more to them than that. “White grubs are eating the accumulated thatch and organic matter that’s in the top inch of the soil profile.” - Source: Internet
• If you have backyard chickens, you have a ready-made, natural grub treatment that can be quite effective. Turn your chickens loose in your yard, and they will be more than happy to dig up grubs and eat them all day. Keep in mind that the process of digging for grubs is great for soil that needs to be worked but can destroy a flowerbed if left unchecked. - Source: Internet
• up the soil from that cut. If there is grub damage, the grass will peel up easily. Sift around the soil, counting the grubs you find. - Source: Internet
• You will want to apply them to your lawn or garden soon after their arrival (or soon after you get them home, if purchasing locally). You will also want to avoid allowing the worms to be in direct sunlight, since even a short time in direct sunlight can render them sterile. To distribute them in your yard, you simply follow the directions on the package to mix the worms with water, and then use a watering can or Nematode Hose End Sprayer to distribute them over your grass or in your garden beds. - Source: Internet
• Acelepryn targets pests such as black beetle, stem weevil, cut worm and army worm. The great thing about Acelepryn in comparison to other pesticides, is that it’s preventative. This is why spring is a great time to spread it out and protect your lawn for up to six months. - Source: Internet
• Neem oil is a botanical pesticide containing insecticidal properties. Neem oil works more as a repellant against Japanese beetles and lawn grubs — inhibiting egg-laying, growth, and feeding. Neem oil is mixed with water (as directed) and sprayed onto affected lawn areas. - Source: Internet
• Birds – If you already know the benefits of a pollinator-friendly garden then you might also know that pollinators, like birds, eat insects and grubs. Native plants to Minnesota, such as Echinaceas, Agastaches, and Asclepias, are perfect for attracting birds. Don’t forget to install a few bird houses and baths, too, as well as some shrubs for bird nests. - Source: Internet
• Don’t wait for lawn grubs to destroy your lawn. Take action before you see them by taking care in selecting your grass and caring for it. If you still get them, don’t wait. Be willing to call in professionals, especially if you are considering chemical treatments. - Source: Internet
• However, Shetlar did let on that the most experienced organic lawn care professionals may have the knack for using beneficial nematodes effectively against white grubs. “In that case, they work quite well,” he said. “You can typically get 60% to 100% control with the nematodes when they’re used at the right time in the right way.” - Source: Internet
• Lots of adult beetles on the lawn in July is one indication. Watch lawns closely starting in the middle of August and continuing into September for wilting and browning areas. Does the Browning of a Lawn Mean There Are Grubs? - Source: Internet
• “They’re sort of nature’s ‘de-thatchers,’” he added. “But the problem is, [if] they’re eating that thatch, they do eat the roots and the crowns [of turfgrass], which kills the plant.” It’s when these “de-thatcher” populations grow out of control that the dreaded lawn damage takes place. Is Lawn Damage a Sure Sign of Lawn Grubs? - Source: Internet
• Patchy lawns with brown or bare patches are the tell-tale signs of a lawn grub infestation. Other signs to keep an eye out for include white moths flying around as the sun goes down, white egg sacs on your house (eaves, fences, foliage, and furniture) as well as an increase in lawn grub predators such as birds or orange/black wasps. Preferring a healthy lawn, lawn grubs are far more likely to attack a well-maintained lawn. This goes double for all forms of couch grass as they are more prone to infestation. While Sir Walter DNA Certified is more resilient to these pests and usually recovers quicker; it is still susceptible to attack. - Source: Internet
• Curative chemical insecticides . Carbaryl and trichlorfon are considered curative treatments. You apply them once you’ve noticed grubs in the grass. They are short-lived products effective immediately. Treated grubs turn yellow or brown within a week, so reevaluate the turf the week after that to see if the chemicals have been successful. - Source: Internet
• While most people think all lawn grubs are the larvae of Japanese beetles, there are actually several species of beetles that are called grub worms in their larval stage. All have a similar lifecycle and cause the same type of damage to our lawns by eating the roots of the grass. Often Japanese beetles are blamed for the damage of other grub species. - Source: Internet
• Milky spore (Paenibacillus popilliae, formerly known as Bacillus popilliae) is a bacterium that is applied to the soil in either a powdered or granular form. Japanese beetle grubs consume the spores which then go on to reproduce within the body of the grub, eventually killing it and releasing more spores. Milky spore disease only affects Japanese beetle grubs, though, and leaves other lawn grub species intact. - Source: Internet
• How do I get rid of grubs in my garden? Garden grubs can be controlled or eliminated using natural or chemical methods. Introducing natural predators and beneficial bacteria to the environment or using neem oil and vinegar constitute natural methods of controlling grubs. The best pesticides to use for grubs contain trichlorfon active ingredients. - Source: Internet
• in a one-foot section of your lawn. You can use a shovel or a lawn edger, in a place where you suspect grub activity. Peel up the soil from that cut. If there is grub damage, the grass will peel up easily. - Source: Internet
• As said before, grubs aren’t dangerous if they are caught on time. However, when severe damages occur, it is a result of your lawn’s health not being in the best place. If you don’t care properly for your lawn, chances are the lawn is weak and can’t dominate the grubs. But if you aerate and fertilize on time, mow accordingly, and water properly, your lawn will be able to beat any kind of pest invading your turf. - Source: Internet
• When using granular pesticides, it is best to apply them using your garden spreader. Don’t forget to water to get the product down into the soil and kill the active grubs. When using a liquid pesticide, make sure to mix it with water. Spray the affected areas carefully (avoid spreading on a healthy turf). - Source: Internet
• Especially if there’s a way to get into the garbage, such as holes or cracks. Once they get into the garbage, they can lay their eggs in the food and waste near your garden. The eggs they lay will hatch and develop into maggots. These maggots are the grubs you see in your garden. - Source: Internet
• Milky spore is a natural treatment for killing grubs and lasts a long time. To apply, use a tablespoon of the product and sprinkle over the affected areas. Don’t use a garden sprayer. Water your lawn for 15 minutes every day. - Source: Internet
• Since grubs eat grass roots, the lawn will be easy to pull up in chunks. If it’s still firmly rooted, then you have another problem, such as brown patch. Why Are There Bright Green Rings Around Those Brown Spots? - Source: Internet
• The damage caused by grubs is largely due to their diet, which consists primarily of grass roots, as well as other organic matter in the soil. As they eat the roots of your grass, they destroy the root system, which means your grass will not get the water and soil nutrients it needs to stay healthy. This will lead to patches of grass that are brown, dead and easy to pull out of the ground. - Source: Internet
• To get some more advice lawn grubs or to purchase a new lawn call our team on. You can also to pop in and order in person at our sales office on 1/243 Bradman Street, Acacia Ridge. The office opens Monday to Friday 7am to 5pm and Saturday 7am to 12pm. For more great turf, tips keep an eye on our website and all our social media channels. - Source: Internet
• Grubs – also called white grubs, grub worms, or lawn grubs – are the larvae of scarab beetles, such as Japanese beetles and June bugs. The basic cycle consists of beetles laying eggs in late summer and fall, those eggs hatching into larvae that burrow into the soil and survive on organic matter (like roots) through winter and spring, and then the larvae entering the pupal stage and maturing into beetles to leave the soil in late June. Then, after dining on foliage for the summer, the new beetles lay another round of eggs, and the process starts over again. - Source: Internet
• Artificial grass is not a natural product, but it is worth adding to this list because it is an effective option that requires no toxic pesticides or repeated treatments. Replacing your natural grass lawn with synthetic turf is a sure way to keep a grub population from taking hold in your lawn and destroying it. Plus, you can enjoy a lush, green lawn throughout the year that looks, feels and functions like natural grass without grub problems or the mowing, watering, weeding, aerating, edging, fertilizing and other tasks that are required to maintain a healthy, natural lawn. - Source: Internet
• White grubs require moisture to thrive, so one easy way to shrink the population is to avoid providing them with that moisture. This is not always possible, since they can be found in vegetable gardens and flowerbeds where we want to maintain their visual appeal or in lawns that require more water during the critical summer-fall period where grub treatments are most effective. However, if you have a grass lawn that can go dormant in the summer and recover once water is re-introduced, you could take this opportunity to kill some grubs while also conserving water and lowering your summer water bills. - Source: Internet
• When choosing nematodes, make sure to pick ones that work effectively against grubs. Mix them with water in your regular garden sprayer. Water your lawn accordingly to keep it moist at all types and always spray the nematodes in the evening. - Source: Internet
• Depending on their exact species, grub worms could turn into several different adult beetles. As grubs, they all look really similar, and if you want to tell one type of grub worm apart from the others, you’ll need a magnifying glass and the strange desire to examine the hairs on their butts (no, I’m not kidding). Each type is also subtly different in size right before they turn into an adult, but size shouldn’t be relied on for identification because they grow from egg to pupae over the course of several months, changing size along the way. - Source: Internet
• If you are interested in making a homemade grub killer or repellent, you may already have most of the ingredients in your pantry. For example, one popular homemade grub treatment mixes dish soap, lemon juice, and mouthwash with water in a spray bottle that you can then spray on your lawn to repel beetles. Other options include mixing garlic and water or chili peppers and water to create a pest repellent spray. - Source: Internet
• If eco-friendly, organic gardening is your thing, you probably already have neem oil in your garden shed. This natural pest repellent works wonders on keeping all sorts of garden pests at bay. If you spray neem oil on your lawn at night during egg-laying season, it can keep beetles from laying eggs in your soil, which makes this a great preventive measure. Azadirachtin, which is made from neem seeds, is also used as a natural grub killer, which can be sprayed on your lawn to both repel beetles and kill grubs. - Source: Internet
• around the soil, counting the grubs you find. Tally the count. If there are 10 or more grubs per square foot, you have a serious infestation. - Source: Internet

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