48 Pointers For Planting Potato Seeds In The Ground

Today’s topic is How To Plant Seed Potatoes In The Ground. Obviously, you can find a great deal of True Potato Seed-related content online. The proliferation of online platforms has streamlined our access to information.

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48 Tips for How To Plant Seed Potatoes In The Ground | How Do Potatoes Grow

• Potatoes generally need 1 to 2” of water per week. Whether through rainfall or added irrigation, be sure that they don’t dry out. The soil should always be moderately damp. Because they are typically planted in the spring, potatoes often don’t need irrigation until later in the summer. - Source: Internet
• Like their cousins, tomatoes and peppers, potatoes are not very frost tolerant. However, they can handle small amounts of frost down to about 28°F. The use of cloches or row cover will help with cold protection in the event of a sudden cold snap. - Source: Internet
• Put them in a light area that is around 60 to 70°F. A windowsill, porch, or greenhouse will work great. Leave the potatoes to work their magic. They will start to sprout while exposed to the light and warmth. - Source: Internet
• Storage or maincrop potatoes should not be cleaned or washed after harvest. Instead, leave the soil intact and let them dry outdoors. If you mowed back the foliage to allow the skins to thicken in the soil, you can put them directly into a root cellar or cooler for long-term storage. - Source: Internet
• Remember that drainage is very important for this starchy root crop. Nobody wants rotten potatoes! A sandier soil is more ideal than clay. If you have a lot of clay-rich soil, add a generous amount of compost or peat moss to help loosen it up. - Source: Internet
• Once foliage has reached 6-8” tall, it’s time for the first hilling. To hill your potatoes, use a hoe or rake to mound soil from the aisles up along the plant bases. The initial mounds should be about 4” up the plant base. Broad, widened hills are typically better than narrow or high hills. - Source: Internet
• Like many of our garden vegetables, potatoes love fertile, well-drained loamy soil. A slightly acidic pH (6.0 to 7.0) is best and can be achieved with additions of quality compost, leaf litter, - Source: Internet
• Second-crop potatoes take about three months to reach maturity. They are grown in exactly the same way as spring-planted potatoes with two important exceptions. First, the warmth of late summer means that second-crop seed potatoes do not need to be pre-sprouted – they’re primed to get growing without delay. Second, you’ll need to consider the risk of frosts later on in the growing cycle and take the necessary precautions to avoid damage to your plants. - Source: Internet
• In the U.S., we barely scratch the surface of diversity. Still, there are about 200 cultivars of potatoes available for planting in your garden. We’ll explore our favorites below! - Source: Internet
• Propagating potatoes begins with understanding their anatomy. Each potato is its own tuber. This tuber is a nutrient storage house that contains all the things a plant needs to regrow from that root base. - Source: Internet
• When you receive seed potatoes in the mail or purchase them from the garden store, you should open them up and inspect them as soon as possible. Check for any signs of mold, rotting, or fungal growth and discard damaged potatoes immediately. Plants showing early signs of decomposition are not usually ideal candidates for planting. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes have been around for almost 10,000 years and continue to be a staple food for cultures across the world. They store for up to 6 months for tasty nourishment all winter long. Whether you roast ‘em, mash ‘em, fry them, or shred them in a hash, potatoes can compliment any meal with a hefty serving of starchy-filling goodness. - Source: Internet
• This step is optional, but definitely beneficial. Sometimes the seed potatoes will arrive with some buds, but oftentimes they haven’t yet begun to sprout. You can sprout your potatoes before or after cutting them. I’ve found that it’s easier to recognize the eyes after they have started to sprout. - Source: Internet
• Whether or not you choose to leave potatoes in the ground depends on how cold early winter is in your part of the world. In temperate regions, little more than an extra pile of earth strewn over the top of the rows should be enough to provide an additional layer of defense against occasional frosts. If winters are severe or your soil is wet and heavy, then you’re safer lifting all of the potatoes to pack them into boxes of coarse sand kept in a frost-free place. - Source: Internet
• If time allows you to grow your spuds in the ground, pick a warm, sunny spot to ensure the quickest growth and the best chances of success. Position the seed potatoes 30cm (12in) apart along the bottom of trenches spaced at least 60cm (24in) apart. Cover them over then once the stems reach about 20cm (8in) tall, begin earthing up by drawing the soil up around the stems to create ridges. This creates more ‘room’ for the developing spuds to grow into (container potatoes are topped up as they grow for the same reason). - Source: Internet
• Growing potatoes is surprisingly simple and straightforward. These tubers are easy to please and eager to yield loads of starchy round roots. Beginner gardeners will be pleasantly surprised by how quickly they can grow and how abundantly they can yield with little effort. - Source: Internet
• If the potatoes still need to be cured, place them in a dark, well-ventilated area around 50 or 60°F. An autumn garage will often do. Spread them out in crates or on newspaper for maximum air flow. Be sure that it stays dark so they don’t start turning green. - Source: Internet
• Mounding or hilling potatoes is the only laborious maintenance required for this crop. They absolutely need to stay underground to prevent the formation of green skins with higher levels of solanine. These sun-exposed potatoes will taste bitter and could be toxic if consumed in large amounts. - Source: Internet
• Plain old potatoes may not seem like the most exciting crop to grow in your garden. After all, they are cheap to buy and relatively bland in the kitchen. But there is a lot more to the humble potato than meets the eye. - Source: Internet
• Mixed in are lots of roots and lateral stems that make up the entire below-ground portion of a potato plant. At the time of harvest, the entire plant is dug or pulled up. Then, the harvestable potatoes are removed from their stolons, cured, and stored. - Source: Internet
• Don’t panic, potatoes are necessarily poisonous, but these toxic compounds were a key reason why this crop didn’t initially catch on as a food crop in Europe. People were initially a bit scared of the nightshade family as a whole. Throughout history, the potato (and tomato) have been shrouded in mystery. - Source: Internet
• Storage ‘Maincrop’ Potatoes Full size potatoes are harvested after a much longer growing window, typically in the fall between September and November. They have thick skins and can be cured in the ground after cutting back the foliage, or in a root cellar. When properly cured, storage potatoes can hold for up to 6 months under proper conditions. - Source: Internet
• The ideal soil temperature is 45 to 55°F and the ideal ambient temperature is around 60 to 70°F. Ultra hot temperatures above 90°F can put a lot of strain on potatoes. Gardeners in areas with hot summers often opt for early spring or fall planted varieties. - Source: Internet
• Whether whole or cut into chunks, each seed potato should be at least the size of a golf ball. Anything smaller is going to have a hard time growing into a plant size plant. On the other hand, planting oversized seed potatoes can also lead to plants that bear tons of tiny potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes are very closely related to tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. In fact, they all reside in the same genus: Solanum. The Solanaceae or Nightshade family includes potatoes and their relatives of more than 3,000 species around the world. - Source: Internet
• New Potatoes Small, thin-skinned tubers that are harvested 50 to 60 days from planting. These spring potatoes are tender and delicious for eating from June through August. Their skins are very fragile and will easily scrape off, so they typically don’t store for very long. Any variety can be harvested “new”. - Source: Internet
• Most varieties can be planted 12” apart in rows 24-36” apart. Varieties that yield extra large potatoes can be spaced up to 18”. Smaller types, including fingerlings, or those you want to harvest as “new” potatoes, can be spaced as close as 8” between plants. - Source: Internet
• You can save your own seed potatoes for second cropping by keeping some of your spring seeds back. Keep them on a cool, bright windowsill. Check the shoots periodically for aphids and plant them before they begin to wither. - Source: Internet
• You might have heard of growing potatoes from those in your kitchen. Grocery store potatoes can appear identical to seed potatoes in many ways (and often much cheaper). However, they aren’t always the best option for planting in your garden. - Source: Internet
• How many potatoes can you get from one plant? The average yield of garden-grown potatoes is about 2 pounds. You can get 5 to 10 medium or large potatoes per plant. Smaller potatoes and fingerlings may yield up to 15 or 20 small potatoes. The harvest size will depend on variety, fertility, irrigation, and the quality of the soil. - Source: Internet
• Regardless of which method you use to check the maturity, when it comes time to harvest, all you need is a digging fork and a crate. First, push aside any extra mulch on top of the mounds. Dig the garden fork about a foot away from the base of the plant to gently lift the roots without stabbing the potatoes. - Source: Internet
• Using row cover after young potatoes emerge is one simple way to keep the beetles at bay. However, once warm weather hits, scouting and manual removal are the best approaches. Some people even use a handheld vacuum to sweep up the pesky bugs straight from the potato plants. - Source: Internet
• By the 1700s, potatoes made their way to America. Scottish and Irish immigrants in New England began successfully cultivating the Russet potato and established it as an integral winter storage crop for the region. Since then, potato breeding efforts have yielded a large variety of skin colors, shapes, and textures. However, yellow potatoes like Yukon Gold and Russet remain the most common in commercial production. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes are often cut to maximize your crop. If they are already small (like fingerlings or butterballs), it’s best to plant them as is. But medium and large seed potatoes can be cut to increase your yields. Like chitting, cutting seed potatoes is optional but recommended for most gardeners. - Source: Internet
• All this being said, there isn’t really an advantage to planting store bought potatoes. Perhaps you want to toss some sprouts in the garden to see what happens. However, a dedicated gardener is better off purchasing seed potatoes of a specific variety for a more reliable crop. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes planted in summer are called second-crop potatoes. Seed potatoes for second cropping are sold by garden suppliers and potato merchants anytime from mid to late summer. The seeds are exactly the same as those sold for spring planting, only these ones have been held back in a cold store to stop them developing any further; they’re literally in suspended animation. - Source: Internet
• Wait Until Above Ground Foliage Yellows (Main Crop Only) For storage potatoes, wait until the above-ground foliage has started to dry or yellow in the fall. Oftentimes, you can wait until a bit of light frost damage occurs (not a hard frost!) to indicate that they are mature. To promote the thickening of storage potatoes’ skins, mow or cut back the foliage a week or two before harvest. If the weather doesn’t cooperate, simply pull the plants and cure them in a root cellar. - Source: Internet
• Check that the soil is fairly dry and above 50°F before planting. While cool weather isn’t usually a huge issue, ultra wet springs are more likely to delay the planting process because you risk them rotting in the ground. For this reason, many northern growers plant chitted (green sprouted) potatoes around late spring or even early summer once the soil is dryer. - Source: Internet
• The easiest way to grow second-crop spuds is in containers. A small pot just 30cm (one foot) tall and wide can hold one potato plant, while larger containers up to the size of a trash can could hold up to four. Set the seeds onto a layer of compost or potting soil about 10cm (4in) deep, or deeper if your container is particularly tall. Cover over with another 10cm (4in) of compost then add more compost as the stems grow, topping up 5-10cm (2-4in) at a time until the top of the container is reached. - Source: Internet
• Rake the bed clean and use the back of a garden tool to mark rows 24-36” apart. Optionally, you can make 2-4” deep furrows that will aid in the hilling of your potatoes. Lay out a tape measure along each furrow to help mark your spacing as you plant. - Source: Internet
• Flowers Can Be a Sign They will be 2-3” in diameter and very tender. Once your potatoes begin to flower, dig up a few plants to enjoy as tender spring potatoes. These can be washed and stored in a cooler for summer treats. I prefer to stagger my new potato harvest as I eat them. - Source: Internet
• Prepare beds with a broadfork to thoroughly loosen the top 12” of soil before planting. Remember that they have shallow root systems, but they need plenty of space and aeration to spread out their stolons and tubers. The most uniform potatoes will come from soil that is well-drained, loose, and free of large rocks. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are not at all related to sweet potatoes (Ipomea batatas). Sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory or Convolvulaceae family. Whereas potatoes belong to the nightshade or Solanaceae family. - Source: Internet
• However, if using trays, crumple old newspaper in the bottom and lay your potatoes out in an even single layer. With egg cartons, simply remove the tops and place one in each hole. Keep the sides with the most eyes facing upward. - Source: Internet
• Fortunately, the potato season isn’t over when the last of the summer spuds are harvested. Plant some seed potatoes in late summer and you could be enjoying a bonanza of earthy nuggets from late autumn right through to Christmas. Just imagine serving up your own tender new potatoes with the festive meal – what a treat! - Source: Internet
• Potatoes are vegetatively (asexually) propagated. This means they are grown using pieces of the tuber itself, rather than from true seeds. The actual seeds from potato flowers are not used in gardening. This is because they take much longer to grow and don’t yield true-to-type potatoes. - Source: Internet
• This can be confusing because when you buy planting materials. They are often sold as “seed potatoes.” In reality, “seed potatoes” aren’t seeds; they are potatoes that have been grown specifically for the purpose to be replanted. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes are typically kept in a cool, dry place around 40°F until the time of chitting or planting. A root cellar, refrigerator, or cooler will do as long as they do not freeze. A paper bag, perforated bag, or open container is typically fine as long as they don’t dry out and shrivel. Ideally, they should be planted as soon as possible. - Source: Internet

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