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  • ‘Twist-n-Shout®’ – This cultivar is the first re-blooming lace-cap from the Endless Summer™ Collection. It’s a re-bloomer that produces exquisite blue/pink (depending on soil pH) flowers during the summer. An added bonus to the flowers is the burgundy-red coloration of the foliage in the fall. Shrub grows 3 to 5 feet tall and wide and does well in part shade. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Let’s Dance® Moonlight’ – In summer, this floriferous hydrangea produces large, rich rose-pink or blue (depending on soil pH) mop-head flowers that are held on sturdy stems. In autumn, the foliage takes on bronze-red tones for additional late season interest. This compact shrub grows 2 to 3 feet tall and wide and does well in part shade. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf hydrangea) is the species that many gardeners have and find that they don’t bloom reliably each year. This hydrangea blooms on old (last year’s) wood. Assuming that the plant is getting sufficient light and the flower buds are not inadvertently removed by late season pruning, nonflowering is most likely because the flowers buds are winter killed, and/or the buds survive the winter, but are killed by spring cold spells. - Source: Internet
  • Panicle hydrangeas have gorgeous cone-shaped blooms that emerge white in mid-summer and age to various shades of lime, parchment, pink, and red as fall nights cool down. These hydrangeas are some of the most cold-hardy, many will survive up to zone 3, making this the perfect choice for colder climates. Panicle hydrangea’s upright form means it can be pruned into a tree form. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Vanilla Strawberry’™ – A relative of the PeeGee Hydrangea, it forms large flowers in mid-summer. The flower coloration begins as creamy-white, changes to pink, and then eventually becomes strawberry-red to burgundy. As the summer progress, new flower heads continue opening, and as a result, the plant displays all three color stages at any one time. The multicolored blooms, which are borne on red stems and contrasted against the green leaves, make a spectacular sight! This shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide and does well in sun to part shade. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Little Lime’™ – This unusual, compact cultivar grows 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. In midsummer, the dark green leaves are topped with 6 to 8 inch lime-green flowers that take on hints of pink and red as they mature. The flower color is not affected by soil pH. This hydrangea does well in sun to part shade. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Quick Fire’™ – This beautiful hydrangea is a breakthrough, since it flowers about a month earlier than other H. paniculata cultivars. In mid-summer, creamy-white flowers form on red stems, and as the season progresses, the flowers take on a deep rosy-pink coloration; flower color is not affected by soil pH. This shrub can grow 6 to 8 feet tall and wide and does well in sun to part shade. - Source: Internet
  • You can find specific fertilizers for your hydrangeas in your store. You can choose a soluble fertilizer or granular fertilizer, depending on your preference. I would suggest using a liquid fertilizer, as the dosage is easier to control. - Source: Internet
  • The main cause of color change in hydrangea flowers is aluminum. Depending on its presence or absence, the flower will change to one color or the other. To understand more about How to Change Colors of Hydrangea – Ultimate Guide I recommend you to read this article. - Source: Internet
  • After summer, hydrangeas prepare to overwinter. During this dormant period, you should NOT use any fertilizers on your hydrangeas. Do not fertilize Hydrangeas during winter. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Kyushu’ – This cultivar can grow eight feet tall and wide. In midsummer, the lush, bright green foliage is topped with white flowers (8 inches plus) that turn pinkish to almost purple as the season progresses. This cultivar holds its blooms later than many other hydrangeas. It does well in sun to part shade. - Source: Internet
    1. Cutting hydrangeas to bring in the house. I love doing this and so do my girlfriends. They come by every fall to snip some from the back of my plants to take some home. One tip I have is only cut blooms that have been open on the plant for a while, I find the newly opened blooms wilt. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Penny Mac’ – In summer, 6 to 8 inch rounded clusters of showy mop-head flowers in blue /pink, depending on soil pH, are formed. This hydrangea can grow 4 to 6 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. It does well in a location with part shade. - Source: Internet
  • For blue flowers (soil pH should be 5.0-5.5) dissolve one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate in a gallon of water and drench the soil around the plant in March, April and May. Don’t overdo this treatment, because too much aluminum can be toxic to the plant’s root system. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangea macrophylla ‘L. A. Dreamin’™ ‘Lindsey Ann’ – In summer, this hydrangea produces mop-head flowers in pink, blue and in-between, regardless of soil pH. The color palette of hues and mixtures is set off beautifully against shiny foliage that is nearly translucent when backlit by light. This compact shrub grows 2 to 3 feet tall and wide and does well in part shade. - Source: Internet
  • Why Hydrangea Won’t Bloom? The Most Common Problems with Hydrangeas: The leaves fall off and do not bloom. It lacks food or the fertilizer is incorrect. Choose a fertilizer for hydrangeas. - Source: Internet
  • ‘Let’s Dance® Starlight’ – In contrast to its sister, ‘Lets Dance® Moonlight’, this hydrangea produces lace-cap flowers, in blue/pink, depending on soil pH. The vivid flower colorations offer a nice contrast with the glossy green leaves. It grows 2 to 3 feet tall and wide and does well in part shade. - Source: Internet
  • Let’s face it, gardeners – hydrangeas are terrific landscape plants. They do have deer issues, don’t always bloom reliably, and sometimes the flower color isn’t quite what we want. Not to fret – although the hydrangea breeders haven’t yet solved the deer browsing problems, they have introduced some new cultivars that are reliable bloomers/re-bloomers. Depending on the hydrangea species/cultivar (see below) flower color may or may not be impacted by soil pH. - Source: Internet
  • Flowering shrubs Hydrangeas, summer blooming, autumn blooming, fall foliage, dried, cut flowers, blue flowers, pink, white, red, lacecap, mopheads, in landscape garden uses, close up macro images, ID portrait pictures, plant habits of bushes. Hydrangea macrophylla, arborescens, aspera, paniculata, quercifolia, serrata, PeeGee, Endless Summer, anomala, and much more. Email us for even more image selections. - Source: Internet
  • Excess fertilizer can cause this effect. How to fix this Premature Browning of Hydrangea Flowers? We can remove dried flowers and leaves to help the plant. Then, consider changing pots, and replacing the entire substrate with a new one. Of course, do not apply fertilizer for at least 3 to 4 weeks and water normally. - Source: Internet
  • If the Hydrangea is in the ground, water it abundantly all around, making sure that the drainage of the soil works well, so that no puddles form. Why Are Hydrangea Leaves Wilted? The Most Common Problems with Hydrangeas: If the hydrangea becomes wilted and dull, it needs water urgently. Additionally, make sure your hydrangeas are planted in the right place: sufficient sunlight in the morning and shade in the afternoon. - Source: Internet
  • When our hydrangeas are newly planted, you should water them more frequently, at least until they have rooted strongly. Water when the soil at a depth of 20 cm begins to dry out. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture in the soil and measure the soil pH. This device recommended below will do measure moisture and pH (no batteries needed) - Source: Internet
  • The most common type in North America, Bigleaf hydrangeas have the classic mophead – or open lacecap – bloom reminiscent of Cape Cod’s signature plant. With blooms of blue, pink, purple, and more, these classic hydrangea flowers bring color to areas with morning sun, some afternoon shade, and moist, well-drained soil. Avoid planting Bigleaf hydrangea on hot, dry, exposed sites. - Source: Internet
  • Doesn’t require yearly pruning but you can prune off up to 20% of stems just above the crown in spring as this encourages new stems from the base, these will flower in the second year. Leave old blooms on over winter for frost protection and cut them off at the nearest set of buds after the last spring frosts but be aware that the deeper you prune a stem, the more buds you’ll remove and the fewer flowers that will appear. Alternatively, prune in summer after the blooms fade and before the plant sets buds for next year. - Source: Internet
  • Why Hydrangea Won’t Bloom – Avoid placing your hydrangeas in a very shady spot such as under the shade of a tree. In low light conditions, hydrangeas can live, but you will find that they will not bloom or will bloom sparsely. You should also avoid windy areas, as this will cause the flowers to dry out quickly and if the wind is too strong, it can damage them. - Source: Internet
  • All types of hydrangeas grow and bloom well if you place them in a location where they receive sufficient sunlight in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Hydrangeas especially appreciate these light conditions. It is important to consider the average temperature in the area where you live. For example, if you live in a place where the sun falls very strongly and temperatures are high, you will probably need to limit the number of hours of sun exposure. - Source: Internet
  • Aptly named, this hydrangea is accented by leaves that resemble an oak tree. One of the earliest blooming species of hydrangea, the incredible foliage also gets amazing fall color. Native to North America, this woodland species is well adapted to the American landscape. In northern or cooler climates, oakleaf hydrangeas do well in full sun to light shade but in southern or warmer climates, some afternoon sun protection is advised. They will grow best in rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. - Source: Internet
  • Not every pest you see on the leaves of your hydrangea is cause for concern. Spiders, for example, are perfectly fine because they feed on the insects that might be causing problems. However, spider mites are a different story. These are very small and they feed on your hydrangeas. They pierce the leaves and remove fluid from the leaves leaving tiny yellow spots behind. - Source: Internet
  • Common Problems with Hydrangeas – How to Encourage Hydrangeas to Bloom. One of the keys to encouraging hydrangeas to bloom and caring for hydrangeas is fertilizing. Hydrangeas, like most plants, grow best if they are properly fertilized. - Source: Internet
  • Chlorosis in hydrangeas causes yellowing of the leaves. Hydrangeas indicate that something is happening to them when they show their leaves changing from green to yellow. However, chlorosis is just one of the possible causes. - Source: Internet
    1. Hydrangeas not blooming: This seems to be the number one problem people have with their hydrangeas, including me! The most common hydrangeas that have blooming issues are in the Macrophylla family or primarily the Endless Summer Hydrangeas. I have researched this in the past and concluded that I needed to fertilize them more but unfortunately, this hasn’t helped me. In fact, after even more research, I think it’s contributing to the problem. Too much fertilizing means your plants will grow nice and big and leafy but no blooms. Like mine here: - Source: Internet
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