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  • Daffodil bulbs are best planted when the soil has cooled – around 15-17 degrees C. Look to the weather page of your local newspaper to see temperatures. That’s usually April to May in the southern hemisphere. The soil must be free-draining or the bulbs may rot. - Source: Internet
  • Plant bulbs where the plants will get plenty of light (at least half a day) as daffodils need it to develop and flower year after year. Planting under deciduous trees is fine as most daffodil growth is done and dusted by the time the trees are in leaf. However, as they’re competing with tree roots, give them additional water and fertiliser. - Source: Internet
  • Bulbs grown in pots can be planted closer together than those planted in the ground, as you can easily repot them each season. To get the most in your pot, plant two layers, one beneath the other but staggered. The bulbs on the bottom layer will shoot up in between the bulbs on the top layer. In a 30cm pot, you can get 12 bulbs – 6 bulbs for each layer. - Source: Internet
  • When choosing bulbs, big is best. Smaller bulbs may not flower the first season. The bulbs should be clean and free from any blemishes, too, or you may find they’ll do nothing but rot. Feel them to ensure there are no soft spots. - Source: Internet
  • Plant in a deep pot rather than a shallow bowl as daffodil roots go reasonably deep. Make sure the potting mix is free-draining – a good-quality bulb mixture is ideal. It should contain a slow-release fertiliser to cater for the bulbs’ needs right through to flowering and beyond. - Source: Internet
  • Plant daffodils so the base of the bulb is about 15cm below the soil surface or, in light soils, 20cm deep. Space 15cm apart. Stagger planting so you have a long picking season or choose both early- and late-flowering cultivars. - Source: Internet
  • The closer you plant your bulbs, the sooner you’ll need to dig them up and separate them, as they’ll become overcrowded and stop flowering. At 15cm apart, you’ll need to dig and replant them every three to five years. If you don’t want to bother with that, space them wider. - Source: Internet
  • After flowering, the bulbs begin to store food for the following season, so this is an important time to feed and water. Remove the spent flower heads and stems but leave the foliage to die down naturally. It’s during this time that all the nutrients contained within the foliage are transferred to the bulbs. Fertilise once or twice more and continue to water until the leaves wither and turn brown. If the leaves are removed when still green, flowering may be reduced the following season. - Source: Internet
  • But even if your region is cool, your bulbs will still benefit from chilling; it accelerates flowering and plants grow longer stems. Less cold equals shorter stems. Keep fruit out of the fridge as the ethylene they give off can damage bulbs. - Source: Internet
  • Perfect drainage is the key to success. If it’s too wet, particularly during summer when soils are warm, bulbs may rot. Work the soil deeply. - Source: Internet
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